I needed to add turn signals, among other things, to my SVX1000 to make it legal to drive in my small hometown. So I thought I'd share my experience and a little of what I did.
I shopped around and got a kit from XTC Power Products
a universal kit ATS-UNI
as they don't make a specific kit for the Havoc/Tracker SVX1000.
The kit comes with everything you need to add front and rear turn signals, tail lights, brake lights, emergency flashers and a horn, which will make it legal in my town, along with a slow moving vehicle sign.
You will need to be knowledgeable in general 12V automotive wiring and be able to navigate Textrons wiring schematics, they aren't the easiest. The service manual for the Tracker SVX1000 which you can buy from your dealer, has schematics in it. But, if you download the service manual
, you will be able to magnify the schematics for old eyes. This manual will cover the Havoc also, maybe not the Havoc X???.
You will also need to have the tools to remove front plastic body for access to the rear of the dash, and the right rear inner fender shield. To get the front body/cover off I needed to first remove the windshield. I have a wire running through my grille to a light bar, so the grille can just set on the front bumper.
Tools you will/may need;
A push pin removal tool
Wire strippers/crimping tool
T27 & T30 Torx bits, or screwdrivers
3/8 nut driver or socket
10mm wrench or socket
metric pin release tool
Step drill for 3/4" holes
Dremel tool, depending on where you mount the switches
It appears like the rear harness was made to run down the left side of the vehicle as the left turn/tail light is the shortest. Most all the factory wiring on the SVX1000 runs down the right side so that's where I ran the rear harness.
The rear harness was to short, as I'm sure they didn't think about the extended length of the Havoc/Tracker 1000. So I had to make up two sets of jumpers 12-14 inches long. Also, because the harness is on the right side of my SxS, I needed to switch positions of the yellow and green wires at the weather tight connector on the front end of the rear harness. Not hard at all if you have the correct release tool. It can be done with a very small screw driver, but be careful not to ruin the connector.
The brake light wire to tap is the blue-red wire in the small, 6 place, weather tight connector under the forward fuse block. I used one of the line taps they suppled and sealed it with liquid tape, which I used on all connections of my jumpers and then wrapped with electrical tape.
I mounted the LED lights in my bumpers, drilling 3/4" holes so I could use the grommets.
Since I had added a light bar switch to my dash previously, there was not a place to mount the two switches together. So I used the template furnished by XTC with the instructions, to cut new holes to the left of the steering wheel. I cut the holes with my dremel tool and finished them with my pocket knife. Be careful not to make the holes to big as the switches need to fit snug.
Everything else is pretty much like they have in the instructions. Be careful when running the rear harness to keep it out of harms way. Remember the rear bumper moves with the bed when you release the bed to dump. Keep it away from the hot exhaust parts and watch pinch points. Use lots of zip ties.
The kit seems very well made and except for the length of the rear harness, reasonably well thought out.
I've included some pictures that might help.